Veenu Singh
Technical Director
L’PACIFIQUE
During lockdown I got lots of calls, obviously not for business but for some common queries, primarily related to hair fall and some magical hair oil treatment?
Even when I scroll my social page, I come across multiple hair oil brands where everyone claims some magical results. In this edition, I am sharing my experience and knowledge about hair oils business and myths associated with it.
- In my view, any hair oil has very limited role in hair re-growth, repair or hair strength. It is a myth that there is a thing called a magical oil which will make your hair thick and longer.
- Any oil is primarily for scalp nourishment and secondary for hair.
Why do we use hair Oil, its purpose?
Which hair oil shall I use?
What else can be used to prevent hair fall or damaged hair?
Hair Chemical Composition
Hair has got primarily 5 main elements namely –
- Protein – Keratin (80%-85%)
- Lipids / Oil – (2-5%)
- Minerals (Zinc, Magnesium, Iron, copper and lead, 2-3%)
- Water (Rest)
- Pigments (Less than 1%)
The Keratinization process is regulated by multiple factors such as hormones, vitamins, genetic factors and our body metabolism.
Keratin is primarily comprised of amino acid Cysteine, which are joint by two sulfur bonds in double helix shape. You can say two S shape structures where Cysteine Amino Acids are joint by two Sulfur Bonds. More the bonds , hair will be thicker and will have more strength.
Lipids / Oils – Role of lipids and oils in hair is primarily to provide lubricity and to repel excess water. Whenever we wash our hair, water enters and swells the cuticle. It also brings with it alkalizers like shampoo and other elements which may break the ionic bonds. If there will be less oil in hair, the hair will remain in swelled position longer and the hair will become porous and sulfur bonds will also start breaking (this is called a damaged hair state)
Role of Minerals – Role of these minerals is to promote Keratinization process that means, generation of new keratin protein to make hair longer. It other means, if there will be less minerals in our hair, hair growth will not happen.
Water – is primarily to add moisture and to minimize combing force.
Pigments – to add color to our hair
So if we see the chemical composition of hair and its specific role, we can make out that oil has very limited role to play here.
Oil has no role in rebuilding the sulfur bonds or in the formation of Keratin Protein. In my view, oil is primarily for the scalp nourishment and to repel excess water.
Now the most important point, which oil?
If you have damaged / Porous Hair – My preference in order
Coconut Oil
because of its low molecular size, 95-96% penetration in cuticle is possible
- because most of the oils are non polar (no charge). It is the only oil that has some positively charged elements. Since our hair protein is negatively charged, therefore it attracts and makes the oil penetration in cuticle easier than all other oils.
- Plenty of research material available
- Easy local availability, Originated in local Indian climate
Sweet Almond Oil – penetration possible upto 93-94% and it has lots of Vitamin E, Minerals and anti oxidants. Lots of research material available.
Olive Oil – Up to 90% penetration possible, lots of research material available.
Linseed / Flaxseed Oil
Argan Oil / Moroccon Oil – profile very similar to Flaxseed Oil. Not originated in India. Too much expensive without logical reasoning. Less research material available
Mustard Oil – Good for Coarse Oil, Less penetration, Good Conditioning. Locally Originated.
Macademia Oil – Profile very similar to Olive Oil, Origin ?, Price 100 ml 2630, Special Benefits ?
Oils which you should never use on hair
Mineral Oil
Ironically, lots of leading brands in market sell Mineral Oil as hair oil because of its shine, It has no nutritional value and lots of harmful effects.
Additives in Hair Oil
Amla, Shikakai, Brahmi – Rich in Vitamins and Minerals, primarily Vitamin C, Anti Oxidant for Scalp, Blood Circulation
Methi . Fenugreek – It is 30% protein in itself and has good amount of Sulfur. Therefore highly compatible for hair structure
Onion – May have some benefits in Keratin Formation due to its sulfur content.
Submission
Oiling has very limited role in hair repair but oiling definitely benefits the scalp and restores loss of minerals , vitamins and lipids.
We should try using locally originated hair oil. There is nothing called a magical oil. Coconut Oil, Sweet Almond Oil, Olive Oil, Flaxseed (Alsi ka Tel) are very good, effective and economical options.
Addition of Amla, Methi and Onion definitely mulitiply the value addition.
